Quince - the golden apple

Popular in Elizabethan times, the quince was known as the golden apple. It was the symbol of love, happiness and fertility. It was popular in jellies and sweetmeats and particularly in pies. Queen Elizabeth I was apparently presented with a quince pie as a gift. 

Quinces have an ancient history spanning central Asia and the Mediterranean. Brought to Rome by the Greeks, the fragrant fruit became popular across Germany, France and Portugal into Southern England and into the Midlands. 

The quince fell out of favour with mass produced jams and marmalades but has of late seen a resurgence in interest again. Ripe fruits are golden in colour, delicately perfumed and very hard and bitter. They cannot be eaten raw. When cooked the quince softens and has a honey like taste. As quinces have a high pectin content they help to enrich and thicken sauces, jams and other stewed fruit. 

The best known quince recipe is probably quince jelly and of course the very first marmalades were of quince. Marmelo means quince in Portuguese where marmalada is very popular. Spanish membrillo or quince paste is delicious with cheese. There are plenty of other ways to use it though. Peel and slice and add to apple pie, use in fruit jams to help setting. Have a basket of quince in the kitchen for a sweet perfumed aroma.

At Oxburgh Hall I used to run cookery sessions using quince and we would have a lovely time baking quince very slowly in honey and wine, served with vanilla ice cream. We would make suet puddings (Hope End Apple And Quince Pudding) and tarts and almond cakes.....  and stews of beef and quince, or Partridge and Quince.....if anyone would like a recipe of any of the above just ping me a message and I will dig them out!  Add a quince to your Christmas Pudding!

This article was originally published in the EDP